"Who Would Ever Think That So Much Went On in the Soul of a Young Girl? " - Anne Frank

Our trip to Amsterdam was an absolute success! Almost everyone in the European Studies group flew to the Netherlands to spend our first three-day weekend in this wonderful city.

I basically did not go to sleep after High Table on Thursday night since I had to be up at 1:30 AM to catch the 2 AM bus to Heathrow Airport in London. Needless to say, as I stood on the corner of High Street and Queens Lane in the frigid air and dreary rain, sleep-deprived at 2 in the morning, I was hardly in the mood to go to Amsterdam. To make matters worse, our scheduled bus with our reserved seats sped by the bus stop without picking us up. We were forced to split a taxi between a group of six which was hardly cost-friendly.

It was an early Friday morning in the Heathrow Airport...

Once we arrived in Amsterdam, it took us a rather long time to figure out where our hostel was and how to get there using the tram system, but we found it eventually and were settled in in no time. Speaking of trams, I have two complaints about Amsterdam: 1) everything is ridiculously expensive. Between meals and museums, my wallet is suffering. 2) the city is full of inconsiderate bikers that will run you over before you can say "strudel." When you dodge the bikers in the bike lanes, chances are you'll jump right in front of a hurtling tram and then you're forced to duck and lunge your way across a whole street of various kinds of motor vehicles.

I AMSTERDAM in Leidesplein

Anyway, we were constantly busy this weekend, going from one museum to the next. We started at the Rijksmuseum that displays artists like Rembrandt, Vermeer, and de Hooch. It was grand collection of beautiful paintings by northern European painters. We also visited the van Gogh museum that was absolutely gorgeous. The musuem is expertly organized so you can see the progression of his style from dark, somber paintings, to the vibrant and loose masterpieces for which he is best known. The Anne Frank museum was also very striking. The story is so painful to hear and walking through the "Secret Annexe" just made it even more poignant. To be hidden indoors for such an extensive period of time and to be turned in to the gestapo by an anonymous call...such a tragic story for a girl so young and talented-- one of many, to be sure. On a sillier note, we also visited the Heineken Experience museum which was a lot of fun. There was a virtual simulation of how the beer is made, bottled, and transported. It was really neat to learn about the history and marketing of such a huge company. For dinner on Friday night. Carrie, Maggie, and I were very adventurous and tried Indonesian food (evidently it's very good in Amsterdam, compared to other places). It was delicious! Very flavorful and spicy soup, spring rolls, and meat and rice dishes. Yum! Oh! I forgot to mention that we briefly walked through the Red Light District in broad daylight (don't worry, Momma, we were quite safe). I mean briefly. It was quite possibly one of the most uncomfortable situations I've ever experienced and frankly made me feel very sad as I couldn't help but think of Fantine in Les Miserables. I hope I never find myself back there again, but I'm glad I went for the experience.

Outside the van Gogh Museum

While Amsterdam was a blast, I am so ready to curl up in my bed in my little room in Oxford and to wake up to a nice cup of tea tomorrow morning. A cup of tea that does not cost 4€.

When In Oxford...

Well, this past week has been sooo...just, "Oxford!"

Last Sunday afternoon, Stevens and Sally took a group of us to The Old Parsonage for afternoon tea and scones. We sat in a charming patio with some rather persistent yellow jackets and debated over the correct pronunciation of the word "scone." Is is "sc-OH-ne," or "sc-AH-ne"? And in what order do you spread the butter, jam, and clotted cream on top? If indeed, you use all of those toppings at all. The tea was truly delicious, even though I ordered a simple English breakfast tea-- it was certainly the best I've ever tasted.

On Tuesday, Stevens and Sally took us punting from the Cherwell boathouse. This was an adventure that we had all been anticipating for some time. I was in a boat with Margaret Garrett, Lauren Gould, and Cecily Millen with the undaunted Patrick Quinn as our captain. At first, it was a very nice day for boating, the sun was out and there was a light breeze. As we continued on our way, however, the breeze turned into strong winds blowing us into the river banks so we decided to turn back. At this point, Patrick had really mastered the punting technique and we were able to navigate back somewhat efficiently despite the wind. After treating ourselves to hot chocolate and ice cream we walked back to Lincoln College for dinner and homework. It was a very busy week academically-- no one wanted to have homeowork in Amsterdam!

Captain Patrick Quinn on our punt!

"My Professor Took Me On A Walk and Proceeded to Recite the Entire First Act of Hamlet..."

Our lengthy bus ride to Oxford was painless as we stopped twice in two hour intervals. Our second stop was at Hardwick Hall, the estate of Bess of Hardwick who was the second-wealthiest woman in England- second only to the Queen of England herself. The manor is enormous and is covered in the most elaborate and beautiful tapestries. Most of the furniture that is on display is in fact original, as well. There are some lovely manicured gardens with statues and an apple orchard as well.

A tapestry in Hardwick Hall.

Our arrival in Oxford (specifically Lincoln College) was well-anticipated and it certainly did not disappoint. We were received by Sally with refreshments and some introductory remarks before we all received our room locations and keys. I am living in a single above Grove Square, which is the lawn we are allowed to walk on and where we may play croquet. Lincoln College has the most remarkably green and manicured lawns I have ever seen. Pete, the gardener, certainly deserved the annual gold medal awarded to the Oxford college with the best lawn! The inside of my room is quite pink, possibly my least favorite color, but I think it is so charming and the perfect size. I have my own bathroom, window seat, bulletin board, not to mention the lovely view of Grove Square.

View of Grove Square from my room.

My single!

So pink! Ah!

Our first day consisted of tours around the city. Our guide, John, pointed out places of historical, practical, and, of course, Harry Potter interest! We visited New College, the church of the College of Saint Mary the Virgin, and the Bodleian Library, among other places. After our tours it was time to get ready for our European Studies 2010 picture and our first High Table dinner!

The Bridge of Sighs.

Our picture took an unbearably long time, and I cringed every time the photographer took a step as he was treading on our precious award-winning lawn (under ordinary circumstances, NO ONE except the gardeners are allowed on the lawn). Our impatience immediately subsided when we were greeted in Grove Square with champagne and sherry. Drinks in hand, in the perfectly cool evening air, we met our professors, nay, "dons," for our six weeks in Lincoln College. They were all wonderfully British, (well, one is Scottish), and very very intelligent. One even calls himself "over-educated" (jovially, of course)! We filed into the Great Hall for an amazing dinner consisting of sea bass and white wine, followed by duck, sweet peas, potatoes, and red wine, with an incredible chocolate torte for dessert. With very full bellies, and minds gauzy but bright, we listened as Dr. Masters (a former administrative of European Studies) gave a speech. It was beautifully done as he asserted that we are the masters of our education. That there is no point in liberal arts education these days, what with the internet, but the point is for us to have initiative to be inspired and to inspire others. By going to a liberal arts school, we don't attain an education, we experience one. As for technology, Google can tell us when Durham Cathedral was built and of what material. But, it can't explain the feel of the cool, rough, and porous texture of the stone columns lining the nave, nor can it capture the alarming creak of the old wood pews in the choir as you take a seat. After such a motivational speech, I'm ready to prove myself here. After all, graduate school isn't out of the question...

Enjoying sherry and champagne before High Table dinner.

Goodbye to the "Grey Towers of Durham..."

Once again, these transition days are interrupting my blog!

To catch up...

Our next excursion after Lindisfarne and Bamburgh was to a church and a couple of monasteries that date all the way back to the seventh century.

These churches (Escomb church, Hexham Abbey, and the monastery at Jarrow) were particularly notable because they had been built with stone. After the Roman Empire fell, stone was not used in construction. These churches, therefore were some of the first structures built in stone since the Roman Empire.

After visiting these historical sites, we went to Bede's World, a medieval history museum where we learned the ins and outs of monastic life of monks like the Venerable Bede. Behind the museum is a real replica of a medieval farm with snappy sheep, the most disgusting pigs, and very nosy horses. We petted and fed all the animals as if we were five-year-olds at a petting zoo before boarding the bus back to Durham.

That Thursday, we remained in Durham for a tour of the cathedral. We were all quite relieved that we didn't have to be subjected to yet another bus ride, that is, until Dr. Lomas marched us around all the nooks and crannies of Durham Cathedral until lunchtime. The beautiful lion-form knocker on the door of the cathedral is now an American replica (go U.S.A.!), but looks identical to the original; it even has the same bullet-hole in the top of its head as in the original. Apparently, anyone who was escaping persecution or justice simply had to rush into the cathedral and would be protected until he confessed his sin. When the sin was confessed, he had forty days to leave the country forever, in so doing saving his family from disgrace and disinheritance.

Dr. Lomas lecturing in front of Durham Cathedral.

After lunch, we went on another walking tour of the city to study the fortification of a medieval town. On the way to Preband Bridge we passed an intersection of wooded paths that evidently was inspiration for C.S. Lewis' Chronicles of Narnia. After crossing Preband Bridge for a view of the vity, we ended the tour in the square in between the cathedral and castle of Durham.

Of course,  I had to take a picture with the lamppost where Narnia was supposedly inspired.

The following day we were back on the bus traveling to two castles to study medieval defense systems. We came first to Warwick Castle, property of the Percys, a royal family of Northumberland, followed by a trip to Edlingham Castle, of which very little remains.

Edlingham Castle ruins.

That night we all went out to a club called the Love Shack (hah.) where we all danced and indulged in various beverages. Thank goodness we had the following day off to sleep in and do whatever we wanted in Durham. Page Carpenter and I slept late and went to a cute restaurant called Vennel Cafe for quiche. Afterwards, we grabbed a couple of chai lattes to go from Caffe Nero and we browsed the outdoor market of Durham. We enjoyed a lovely farewell dinner with Dr. Lomas and his wife at a restaurant on the other side of town called Finbar's where I ordered shrimp and avocado salad, a salmon fishcake, and creme brulee. On Sunday, we boarded the bus for Oxford!

Take care, Durham..."it's been real."

The Wear River and Durham Cathedral towers from Prebands Bridge.

Let's Twirl Our Umbrellas and Sing Songs About Rain

A post from Tuesday, the 10th!

In our excursion to Lindisfarne and Bamburgh we had our first day of dreary English rain. Our excitement was not dampened, however, as many of us had been looking forward to visiting Lindisfarne for some time.

Lindisfarne, also called Holy Island, is where the renowned hermit St. Cuthbert founded a monastery and the religious center of medieval Northumbria. It was built on one of the Farne Islands, and, like Mont-Saint-Michelle in France, it is only accessible at certain times of the day because of the tide. Our tour was delayed because of lightning and thunder, but the incoming tide was encroaching upon our schedule so we decided to brave the storm in order to have as much time at the ruins as possible. The view from the heugh (meaning "high point," pronounced "yuff") was beautiful. We could see Lindisfarne Castle, the harbor of anchored sailboats, as well as Inner Farne, the island where St. Cuthbert originally began his hermitage and also where he died. We descended back down into the ruins of the monastery, where Dr. Lomas directed our attention to a well that was probably built before the church by St. Helen, the mother of the emperor Constantine.

A rainy day in the ruins of Lindisfarne!

While Lindisfarne was the ecclesiastical center of Northumberland, Bamburgh was the political capital. Dr. Lomas led us to the top of a sand dune by the North Sea with direct views of Inner Farne to the right and Lindisfarne to the left. Directly behind us was a giant rocky cliff upon which stands Bamburgh Castle. Much of it was constructed later, but the original castle keep date back to the 12th century. A long time ago, nothing stood on that cliff except for perhaps a primitive wooden wall built by the native Celts. As the Roman Empire began collapsing, however, the Angle ruler Ida invaded what is now Bamburgh from the North Sea and stormed the cliff. For the most part, Christianity disintegrated with the Roman Empire, but Irish missionaries came to Northumbria and converted pagans and faulty Christians to the true faith.

Bamburgh Castle in the storm clouds.

A huge storm followed us around all day and when we excited urged Dr. Lomas to take us up to the castle gate, the heavens opened. It was fun, and a great bonding experience, but after our little hike we were all so soaked through that we may as well have all jumped in the North Sea. Needless to say, our three and a half hour drive home in sticky wet clothes was hardly comfortable. All was fixed with a hot shower and a glass of wine!

Running Down Hadrian's Wall

I'm a bit behind schedule because for some reason the email on my iPhone is not working! This post was written on Tuesday.

Yesterday (Monday, the 9th) was our first day of class in the history department of Hatfield College, the University of Durham. Our focus for the day was on the Roman frontier. We learned about the building process of Hardian's Wall and the development of vici, or, settlements around the miles castles and forts of the wall (fun fact, "vici" is the Roman root of our word "vicinity.").

We left the University for our first excursion of our ten day itinerary in Northumbria. We went first to Roman Vindolanda, ruins of a Roman fort that are even still being excavated. There was also a nice replication of a vicus with a reconstructed pagan temple and altars. Also in the vicus was an excellent archaeological museum where we saw carefully preserved Roman tools, jewelry, and most exciting of all, writing tablets. The British Museum considers the tablets to be one of the great "treasures" of Britain. Indeed, they were captivating. We saw detailed photographs of the uncovered items with precise translations of each. Among them were grocery lists, military records, thank you notes, a birthday invitation, even a request for more beer for a military legion! The need for writing and communication was only one of many, many similarities we found between Roman culture and our own modern society.

Sarah Dickey, myself, and Page Carpenter with reproductions of pagan altars.

After a picnic lunch outside of Vindolanda, we hopped back on the bus for a quick trip up to Steel Rigg for a look at the remains of Hadrian's Wall. There is unfortunately not much left of what used to be an enormous wall that towered eighteen feet high, however, the fact that the wall remains at all is extraordinary. Dodging stinging nettles, we all jumped on top of the grass-covered structure and hiked down a hill spotted with cows, energetic with the idea that we were cavorting where Roman soldiers patrolled the barrier of their empire. The rural setting was beautiful: cattle grazing in characteristically English green fields under a cloud-streaked blue sky.

Hadrian's Wall at Steel Rigg.

From Steel Rigg we went to Chester's Fort, stopping along the way at a reproduction of an ancient Mithraic temple. The cult of Mithras, or Mithraism, was a pagan mystery religion that was very popular among Roman generals and commandants. Mithras, also known as the Unconquerable Sun, fought and killed the Heavenly Bull, bringing life to earth. According to myth, it was an arduous struggle during which he retreated to a cave to rejuvenate. He emerged powerful and triumphant, slaughtering the Bull with the help of his ever-loyal dog. His feast day was on his supposed birthday, December 25th. The great emperor Constantine made the convenient connection and conversion from the cult of Mithras, the Unconquerable Sun, to Christianity and the worship of our Unconquerable Son, Jesus. Correlations between Christianity and other mystery religions are always fascinating to explore since our major religion was greatly influenced by them as it developed into the powerful religion it is today.

We reached Chester's Fort early in the afternoon. It was another Roman fort along Hadrian's Wall, a very large compound and excellently excavated. Dr. Lomas lectured us on the structure of these forts and communal life within them. We explored the gateways, the residence of the commandant, the barracks and the bathhouse located right next to the River Tyne. Apparently, the toilets, in addition to the heated and chilled bathing waters, provided quality social time for the army. I couldn't help but imagine a bunch of Roman soldiers "poppin' a squat" in the bathhouse exchanging the day's gossip!

Dr. Lomas lecturing at Chester's Fort bathhouse.

After returning to Durham, Katherine Rogers and I went to Caffè Nero, the British and better version of Starbucks, where we wrote postcards and journal entries while enjoying a delicious cafe mocha. 

Running Down Hadrian's Wall

I'm a little bit behind schedule, so I'm writing yesterday's post today and will hopefully have time later to write about today's activities as well!

Yesterday was our first day of class in the history department of Hatfield College, the University of Durham. Our focus for the day was on the Roman frontier. We learned about the building process of Hadrian's Wall and the development of vici, or settlements around the mile castles and forts of the wall.

We left the university for our first excursion of our ten day itinerary in Northumbria. We went first to Roman Vindolanda, ruins of a Roman fort that are even still being excavated. There was also a nice replication of a vicus with a reconstructed pagan temple and altars. Also in the vicus was an excellent archaeological museum where we saw carefully preserved Roman tools, jewelry, and most exciting of all, writing tablets. The British Museum considers the tablets to be one of the great "treasures" of Britain. Indeed, they were captivating. We saw detailed photographs of the uncovered items with concise translations of each. Among them were grocery lists, military records, thank you notes, a birthday invitation, even a request for more beer from a military legion! The need for writing and communication was only one of many, many similarities we found between Roman culture and our own modern society.

After a picnic lunch outside of the Roman Vindolanda, we hopped back on the bus for a quick trip up to Steel Rigg for a look at the remains of Hadrian's Wall. There is unfortunately not much left of what used to be an enormous wall that towered eighteen feet high, however, the fact that the wall remains at all is extraordinary. Dodging stinging nettles we all jumped on top of the grass-covered structure and hiked down a hill spotted with cows, energetic with the idea that we were cavorting where Roman soldiers patrolled the barrier of their empire. The rural setting was beautiful: cattle grazing in characteristically English green fields under a cloud-streaked blue sky. The lighting was difficult for my iPhone camera, but here I am! A token picture sitting on top of Hadrian's Wall...

Baps and Tattoos

It's been so long since I last wrote, but things have been so hectic as we've been rushing around Edinburgh and traveling to and around Durham, England. This post covers Edinburgh and our first day in Durham!

Although we were only there for two days, Edinburgh was an absolute blast! I'm trying to accurately remember our activities, but the jet-lag makes everything rather hazy. After we checked into our rooms in the University of Edinburgh, Mary Frances Dale and I went out for lunch and encountered our first vocabulary obstacle. Upon ordering a sandwich we were asked if we'd like it in a wrap or a "bap." Unsure of what exactly a "bap" was, we opted for the panini variety. We learned later that a bap is a bun. Like a kaiser roll, I suppose? Later, Sally Dormer, the dean of our program, led us on a hike up Arthur's Seat for splendid views of the city and the harbor. Unfortunately, Stevens, our other director, was unable to attend as his flight from Paris had been delayed. We returned back to the dorm with time to spare for a a nap before our opening dinner in New Town, Edinburgh. We ate dinner at a grandiose restaurant called The Dome, with vaulted ceilings, low lighting, and detailed decoration. Our dinner consisted of salmon salad with asparagus to start, followed by delicious mashed potatoes, ending in a decadent chocolate mousse. The dessert was so amazing paired with the red wine; I enjoyed it so much that I sneezed twice!

Halfway up Arthur's Seat!

After dinner, many of us decided to hit the town and check out Edinburgh's nightlife. All decked out in heels and dresses, we went to a bar called The Three Sisters that had been recommended to us by previous European Studies students. It was a "hoppin'" atmosphere (as we say) with an outside bar and grill in addition to the interior bars and dance floor. Page Carpenter and I befriended the DJ by the end of the night as we requested more Lady Gaga and Shakira every half hour. Leave it to us Americans to take over anything- in the case, the dance floor. We tore it up to the latest Brit hits and popular mashups. A bachelor party with matching black shirts with nicknames on the back joined us- all I know is I danced with "The Godfather."

When our high heels were killing us, Shelby Bartlett and I decided to take a taxi back to the dorm around  midnight, but unfortunately none were available. So after about an hour of wandering around Nicolson Street barefoot (gross, I know, but as Shelby said, "just deal with it!"), we met Lawrence, a pedicab driver who agreed to pedal us home at a reduced price. We said we would tell him funny American stories, and, well, we did. I suppose the two of us were a bit of a funny story ourselves at the time.

I forced myself awake the following morning to meet Stevens and other students for a walking tour of Edinburgh. Stevens marched us through Old Town, down the Royal Mile and into the parade grounds of the castle. From there we descended into New Town, across Princess Street, all the way to the botanical gardens. Meandering through the gardens was lovely; we rested our aching feet on a bench in front of the largest hedge I've ever seen. Our group split after the gardens as some went to explore on their own while other met Sally at the National Gallery for a tour. I was in the latter group, of course, being the art nerd that I am. I found an unfamiliar painting by an artist that I have never heard of, that is now one of my new favorites! It's called "A Boy Blowing on a Firebrand to Light a Candle," by Godfried Schalcken. The lighting, chiaroscuro, if you will, is stunning.

That evening, Shelby Bartlett and I attended the military Tattoo festival (thanks to Momma for getting tickets!). I'm not sure where the name comes from, but I had to assure multiple that I was going to the Tattoo, not in fact getting a tattoo. The show was great! The uniforms, formations, and music were fantastic. It has to be so meticulous to direct so many people in such precise movements! It was very impressive. The Citadel made an appearance this year for the first time in nineteen years and they did so well! I was very proud of America and South Carolina. They had the whole crowd dancing with "Hey, Baby." After the finale, Shelby and I returned to The Three Sisters to meet our friends for a drink. A collective decision was made among some of us to order Irish car-bombs (a shot of Baileys mixed with Guinness beer), much to the chagrin of the obviously Scottish bartender. After some dancing, Shelby and I called it a night and headed back to the dorm to sleep before our early bus ride this morning.

The Citadel and British Guard in the finale of the Edinburgh Tattoo.

Everyone slept on the way to Durham today, waking up only for lunch on Almsmouth Beach. We all touched our toes to the chilly water before enjoying our chicken salad sandwiches and "crisps." Us westerners arrived in Durham in the early afternoon as the easterners continued on to York. Sally took us on a nice walking tour of Hatfield college (where we are staying in the University of Durham) and of the city. There is a pretty path alongside the Weir River that I hope to walk or jog in the morning if I don't sleep too late. Tomorrow we are studying and exploring the Roman frontier and we take an excursion to Hadrian's Wall with accompanying museum visits.

The River Weir in Durham with the Cathedral towers in the background.

More from Northumbria later this week!

Simplify, Simplify, Simplify...

Here it is: one VERY full suitcase.