Baps and Tattoos

It's been so long since I last wrote, but things have been so hectic as we've been rushing around Edinburgh and traveling to and around Durham, England. This post covers Edinburgh and our first day in Durham!

Although we were only there for two days, Edinburgh was an absolute blast! I'm trying to accurately remember our activities, but the jet-lag makes everything rather hazy. After we checked into our rooms in the University of Edinburgh, Mary Frances Dale and I went out for lunch and encountered our first vocabulary obstacle. Upon ordering a sandwich we were asked if we'd like it in a wrap or a "bap." Unsure of what exactly a "bap" was, we opted for the panini variety. We learned later that a bap is a bun. Like a kaiser roll, I suppose? Later, Sally Dormer, the dean of our program, led us on a hike up Arthur's Seat for splendid views of the city and the harbor. Unfortunately, Stevens, our other director, was unable to attend as his flight from Paris had been delayed. We returned back to the dorm with time to spare for a a nap before our opening dinner in New Town, Edinburgh. We ate dinner at a grandiose restaurant called The Dome, with vaulted ceilings, low lighting, and detailed decoration. Our dinner consisted of salmon salad with asparagus to start, followed by delicious mashed potatoes, ending in a decadent chocolate mousse. The dessert was so amazing paired with the red wine; I enjoyed it so much that I sneezed twice!

Halfway up Arthur's Seat!

After dinner, many of us decided to hit the town and check out Edinburgh's nightlife. All decked out in heels and dresses, we went to a bar called The Three Sisters that had been recommended to us by previous European Studies students. It was a "hoppin'" atmosphere (as we say) with an outside bar and grill in addition to the interior bars and dance floor. Page Carpenter and I befriended the DJ by the end of the night as we requested more Lady Gaga and Shakira every half hour. Leave it to us Americans to take over anything- in the case, the dance floor. We tore it up to the latest Brit hits and popular mashups. A bachelor party with matching black shirts with nicknames on the back joined us- all I know is I danced with "The Godfather."

When our high heels were killing us, Shelby Bartlett and I decided to take a taxi back to the dorm around  midnight, but unfortunately none were available. So after about an hour of wandering around Nicolson Street barefoot (gross, I know, but as Shelby said, "just deal with it!"), we met Lawrence, a pedicab driver who agreed to pedal us home at a reduced price. We said we would tell him funny American stories, and, well, we did. I suppose the two of us were a bit of a funny story ourselves at the time.

I forced myself awake the following morning to meet Stevens and other students for a walking tour of Edinburgh. Stevens marched us through Old Town, down the Royal Mile and into the parade grounds of the castle. From there we descended into New Town, across Princess Street, all the way to the botanical gardens. Meandering through the gardens was lovely; we rested our aching feet on a bench in front of the largest hedge I've ever seen. Our group split after the gardens as some went to explore on their own while other met Sally at the National Gallery for a tour. I was in the latter group, of course, being the art nerd that I am. I found an unfamiliar painting by an artist that I have never heard of, that is now one of my new favorites! It's called "A Boy Blowing on a Firebrand to Light a Candle," by Godfried Schalcken. The lighting, chiaroscuro, if you will, is stunning.

That evening, Shelby Bartlett and I attended the military Tattoo festival (thanks to Momma for getting tickets!). I'm not sure where the name comes from, but I had to assure multiple that I was going to the Tattoo, not in fact getting a tattoo. The show was great! The uniforms, formations, and music were fantastic. It has to be so meticulous to direct so many people in such precise movements! It was very impressive. The Citadel made an appearance this year for the first time in nineteen years and they did so well! I was very proud of America and South Carolina. They had the whole crowd dancing with "Hey, Baby." After the finale, Shelby and I returned to The Three Sisters to meet our friends for a drink. A collective decision was made among some of us to order Irish car-bombs (a shot of Baileys mixed with Guinness beer), much to the chagrin of the obviously Scottish bartender. After some dancing, Shelby and I called it a night and headed back to the dorm to sleep before our early bus ride this morning.

The Citadel and British Guard in the finale of the Edinburgh Tattoo.

Everyone slept on the way to Durham today, waking up only for lunch on Almsmouth Beach. We all touched our toes to the chilly water before enjoying our chicken salad sandwiches and "crisps." Us westerners arrived in Durham in the early afternoon as the easterners continued on to York. Sally took us on a nice walking tour of Hatfield college (where we are staying in the University of Durham) and of the city. There is a pretty path alongside the Weir River that I hope to walk or jog in the morning if I don't sleep too late. Tomorrow we are studying and exploring the Roman frontier and we take an excursion to Hadrian's Wall with accompanying museum visits.

The River Weir in Durham with the Cathedral towers in the background.

More from Northumbria later this week!